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Without question, installing the correct sprinkler system is an integral part of maintaining a luscious and healthy home. At HomeCenter.com, we not only aim to provide you with this crucial presentation of the facts, but also to ensure that you understand it. That is the purpose of this article: to answer any questions you may have along the way in choosing the perfect sprinkler system for you! This article is broken down into seven sections:
Sprinkler Head Type
The types of heads utilized on a specific project are determined by the dimensions of the area being covered, the water pressure available for operation, and a variety of other factors. Choose between a spray or rotor.
Spray
Spray heads spray water in specific circular patterns and can be changed at your discretion. Spacing between sprinklers varies depending upon the specific nozzle that is installed in the head. To operate efficiently, units should rarely be spaced further than 15 ft apart and should be supplied with 20-30 PSI of water pressure. Ideal for smaller, fragmented, hard-to-reach areas, these heads discharge 2-3 times the water of a rotor.
Rotor
Rotor heads also disperse water in circular patterns. However, these are used to cover larger areas of un-interrupted space. Small rotors tend to cover radii of 15-52 feet and large rotors can be designed to cover radii of up to 100 feet. To operate efficiently, rotors need to be supplied with more water pressure than spray heads. The PSI level should approximately equal the space between each installed unit. There are two basic types of rotary heads, categorized by the mechanism that causes the sprinkler to rotate. These types are impact rotors and gear-driven rotors.
Impact Rotors
These rotors move in a circular pattern and slowly water the entire area within that circle. Impact rotors are also available as part-circle sprinklers that can be used in corners or along walks or streets. The impact rotor is typically cheaper than a gear-driven rotor and may provide the most uniform coverage of all sprinklers. However, the largest problem with impact sprinklers is their high maintenance requirement. As an impact sprinkler is activated, it rises out of its assembly to approximately 4 inches above the turf. During the time the sprinkler is in operation, this open cavity in the sprinkler case becomes an open catch for all trash, mud, clippings, insects, and types of yard debris. This debris is washed into the mechanism during the normal operation of the head. Periodic maintenance is required to keep sprinkler canisters clean and to keep dirt and debris from causing damage to the mechanism.
Gear Driven Rotors
With these sprinklers, water turns a small turbine (water wheel or fan) in the base of the unit, which drives a series of gears that cause the head to rotate. The gear drive mechanism is sealed from dirt and debris and operates without the irritating clatter of impact sprinklers. The gear driven design has dominated rotary sprinkler sales in the irrigation industry for some time, in both residential and commercial sites. Although the individual gear drive rotor unit is several times more costly than a spray head, its wider spacing capabilities means fewer heads are needed to cover a given area.
Sprinkler Head Design
Once you have chosen either a spray or a rotor, you must next determine what sprinkler style will best meet the needs of your irrigation area. Choose between either a pop-up or fixed design.
Pop-Up
This is the most common design selected by consumers. Installed below the ground, the sprinkler head remains out of sight while inactive. Accordingly, it will not corrupt or compromise the aesthetic beauty of your landscape. Furthermore, there won’t be any pipes sticking out of the ground for you and your children to either destroy or trip over. Once the sprinkler system is turned on, a small portion of the head will emerge above the surface to disperse water to the irrigation area.
Fixed (Shrub)
Installed above the ground on a riser, this sprinkler design should be utilized if you need to provide water to high-reaching plants. They are sometimes cheaper than pop-ups, but we do advise you that this is not the best selection for an area in the middle of the lawn if it can be avoided. Pop-Ups can usually be designed to perform similar functions and will mitigate the potential problems caused by shrubs (risers) as described in the above paragraph. If a shrub is indeed needed, we encourage you to install them in the corner areas of the landscape not usually walked through.
Control Valves
These devices are used to turn a sprinkler system either on or off. Though manual valves are available, most modern systems include valves that are connected to a controller for automatic operation. We offer three different types of control valves: a globe valve, an angle valve, and an anti-siphon valve.
IMPORTANT: A BACKFLOW PREVENTER MUST BE BOUGHT OR PROVIDED SEPARATELY TO COMPLETE THE PROPER INSTALLATION OF A GLOBE OR ANGLE VALVE. IF YOU PURCHASE AN ANTI-SIPHON VALVE, THE BACKFLOW PREVENTER IS ALREADY BUILT-IN AND AN ADDITIONAL ONE IS NOT NECESSARY.
Globe Valves
Commonly purchased for use in commercial irrigation systems. It is typically installed beneath the ground, and to your convenience, is available in almost any size. They are relatively cheaper than the angle and anti-siphon valves. A backflow preventer MUST be bought or provided separately.
Angle Valves
Offers the same features as the aforementioned Globe Valve but is constructed with an additional inlet at the base of the valve. This creates a 90-degree angle between the inlet and outlet pipes, a construction that moderates the pressure drop that may occur across the valve. If this is indeed a concern for you, the angle valve is a better choice than the globe valve. Again, a backflow preventer MUST be bought or provided separately.
Anti-Siphon Valve
This is quickly becoming the most popular choice amongst consumers, especially since some building codes are beginning to require their installation in irrigation systems. The function of this particular item is best explained by describing the problem it solves: “The Siphon Effect”. The backflow preventer is already built in.
Emergency Valves
These should be installed adjacent to your point of connection with the water supply. Its purpose is to enable you to operate on the mainline or irrigation valves without disrupting the supply of water to your home. There are two basic types for you to choose from: The Gate Valve and The Ball Valve. The Ball Valve is more expensive, but it typically lasts for longer periods of time.
Controllers
Also referred to as “timers,” these devices are responsible for turning an automatic irrigation system on and off. Controllers can range from very simple to quite advanced computer systems that offer many powerful features. One should thus base their selection on the nature of their system. For example, if you have a six-zone irrigation system in place, make sure to select a controller with a six-position capacity. A controller is typically either mounted on a wall or in a protective pedestal.
Electromechanical Controller
Offers exceptional reliability because of its rudimentary electronic components and design. Simply turning dials or flipping switches will set the controller that is rarely affected by power outages. A potential drawback of such a device is the inability to provide independent scheduling to accommodate complex watering requirements.
Electronic Controller
Electronic controllers can be programmed to water different parts of the lawn based on each plant's watering requirements. Landscape can be watered at different rates or frequencies due to sun exposure, poor drainage, or soil conditions. Ideally, these controllers would be reprogrammed as the lawn matured or the seasons changed.
Backflow Preventers*
These are a must in all sprinkler systems if you want to protect yourself from physical harm as well as the law. The backflow preventer prohibits the contamination of your personal water supply. And while the anti-siphon valve already has such a stabilizing mechanism built in, the Globe and Angle Valve are incomplete in such regards. Thus, if you have selected to install a Globe or Angle Valve, you must also choose one of the following backflow preventers.
Atmospheric Vacuum Breaker
If you make this selection, be sure to buy one unit per control valve located on the landscape. They are the cheapest of backflow preventers, and thus a frequent choice amongst customers. However, if you have a lot of control valves, specifically 6 or more, it tends to cost you more in the long run, and a pressure vacuum breaker becomes the more practical choice. AVBs must be installed at least 6” above the highest sprinkler head in the zone that they operate.
Pressure Vacuum Breaker
Comparable in function to the AVB but only requires the installation of one breaker for the entire irrigation system. Accordingly, the number of control valves on your property is irrelevant. It should be mounted on the mainline leading to all control valves, 6” above the highest sprinkler head.
Reduced Pressure Backflow Preventer
The best that money can buy, this preventer is almost always found in a commercial sprinkler system and can be a great compliment to a residential system as well. The device allows for the application of fertilizers or other chemicals into the irrigation system, a function that no other preventer performs. Used mostly in dangerous situations, it should be set up 12” above ground.
Double Check Backflow Preventer
This preventer allows for the flow of pure water that is not susceptible to contaminants in the air. Though this device does not allow for the application of chemicals into the irrigation system, it is cheaper in comparison to the RPBP. Typically, it is installed beneath the ground in a vault and sometimes in basements, a tactic that protects them from freezing.
The Problem With Double Check
Though the preventer is built with two check valves, in the instance that dirt or other objects gets stuck in one valve, it is likely that the same will happen to the other valve at the same time. Thus, the two valves could fail at the same time, in turn causing the water supply to be contaminated by noxious substances.
Sensors
The ability to water only when necessary is the ultimate goal of efficient irrigation scheduling. Today’s technology allows for installation of sensors that can measure soil moisture, rainfall totals, and even shut systems down in freezing weather.
Rain Sensors
These units are mounted in a location exposed to normal rainfall, but outside the watering spray of the sprinkler system. There are different designs, but most have settings that allow some sort of measuring to take place. Rain will cause the system to remain off during or after an event if sufficient rainfall is measured. The settings can be adjusted so that a light shower will not effect the system operation, or eliminate a scheduled watering, when rainfall is not sufficient to make up for a normal application.
Freeze Sensors
This type of sensor is very popular in commercial settings, where ice on walkways or streets can cause liability. Freeze sensors can have a place in the residential garden as well. Watering before or during heavy freezes can create problems with ice-laden shrubs and trees, as well as creating the same liability concerns the commercial user experiences. The freeze sensor is mounted on an outside wall, in a location most likely to experience freezing conditions. It will interrupt the signal to the control valves when temperatures fall below freezing. When conditions improve, the system will return to normal operation
Components
These are just some of the devices that will aid you with installing your sprinkler system:
Worm Gear Clamp
Use for clamping insert fittings with poly pipe.
Swing Joint
The joint provides the sprinkler with flexibility so that it can be adjusted. It also helps to protect it from being crushed. It is primarily used in aboveground irrigation systems on public grounds such as parks.
Crimp Clamp
A circular metal band which is “clamped” by a special tool to help it provide leak-proof sealing.
Goof Plug
Use to plug a tiny “goof” hole in polyethylene hose. Can withstand an operating pressure of 60 psi.
* Rules and regulations regarding the installation of specific backflow preventers vary from town to town. Before purchasing any such items, we suggest that you first contact your local water supplier.
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